THIS JUST IN – last minute chance to go to Bali on an insider tour led by Kathleen Winn. A friend who went on this tour last year is “wildly enthusiastic” and she lives in Princeton, hence my excuse for putting it up on Princeton Comment. It’s a last minute chance, if interested contact KathyWin1@verizon.net
From my friend: I’m sure you recall how wildly enthusiastic I was about my trip last August/September. A very similar trip is going this year, again with Indonesia expert / private guide ( with no personal profit -only a love of the the country). Several people just had to drop out for medical reasons, opening up their spaces. The trip costs ~$2,700 including local flights (Bali-Flores round trip), the boat trip – all but airfare , which is about $1,100 right now. Most such trips are double or more, without the personal home visits and connections that are part of Kathy Winn’s trip.
What I found most meaningful were Buddhist Hindi and other ceremonies/visits. It brought far greater understanding of people with different traditions, cultures and religions.
BALI / NUSA TENGGARA ITINERARY, 2017 from New Jersey
Friday, September 1 DEPARTURE
Friday night, at 8:30 PM, we get a free shuttle in Piscataway to JFK airport.
Day 1 Saturday, September 2
We leave J.F.K. on EVA Airlines at 1:45 AM early Saturday morning, September 2, proceeding directly to Taipei.
DAY 2 Sunday, September 3 KUTA, BALI
We arrive in Taipei at 5:45 AM. En route we cross the International Date Line and lose a day. We will change planes before we depart for Bali at 10:15 AM, arriving in Bali at 3:15 PM.
After we go through immigration, we will be met by our guide, Effendy Yassin. He will take us to the Rani Hotel in Kuta, on the west coast of Bali, where we will check in. We will find our rooms situated in the middle of gardens and near the ocean. Relax, swim, walk around, change money. We may watch an amazing sunset over the ocean from the beach.
DAY 3 Monday, September 4 LABUANBAJO, FLORES
This morning we depart from the hotel at 6 AM to catch our 8 AM flight east from Denpasar over Mt. Rinjani, the highest volcano in Indonesia, found on Lombok Island. Continuing to the east we fly over Mt. Tambora, on Sumbawa Island. This volcano had consisted of two soaring cones, each more than 13,000 feet, visible from nearly 19 miles at sea. It last erupted in 1815 discharging more than 1000 feet of cone into the air and causing the deaths of 90,000 people either from its ash or subsequent starvation of all the people on this and neighboring islands. Throughout the world 1816 was referred to as “the year without summer.”
We arrive in Labuanbajo at 9:15 AM. It is a coastal town and fishing village in western Flores with a beautiful island filled bay and harbor full of trimarins, canoes, single-hulled sailboats, and inboard motor craft. The Muslim Bugis and Bajo seafarers, from Sulawesi to the north, have settled close to the water and are the fishermen. In fact this town is named for the ethnic Bajo people since Labuhan means harbor, “Harbor of the Bajo.” They catch large quantities of squid which are salted and sent to Singapore. The squid are attracted to the lights on top of the nets attached to bagans or off shore movable platforms. When enough have gathered, the net is dropped. The Christians live across the main road away from the sea. These farmers grow rice, manioc (tapioca), corn, oranges, jackfruit and other crops. During the night the ship will have returned to Labuanbajo where we will be anchored.
After our arrival, we will be taken to the top of the hill outside of Labuanbajo where we will visit Melo Village. They will welcome us with a ceremony. Then they will perform the caci or whip dance for us and demonstrate their culture. You will be able to participate.
We proceed to the harbor where we will meet the crew and board the Tarata, our home for the next six nights.
After lunch on board we will sail to Sabolan Island. This is a tiny uninhabited island with a white sand beach and underwater coral gardens. We will spend the afternoon swimming and snorkeling on this beautiful island. To further your enjoyment of the trip, if there is time today, there will be a lecture on a subject which pertains to Indonesian culture, history or natural history.
DAY 4 Tuesday, September 5 RIUNG VILLAGE, FLORES
During the night we will sail east along the north coast of Flores, following its backbone which is an astounding string of active and extinct volcanoes along its length. Discovered by the Portuguese explorers in 1512, who named it Capo de Flores or Cape of Flowers, deep ravines, rugged valleys and thick tropical forests have separated population groups and created different and distinctive cultures on this island. Because of the Portuguese, 85% of the population is Catholic and the church dominates every tiny village. Only in the ports are there any number of Muslims. The Dutch eventually took over this island from the Portuguese in the 16th century when Indonesia became a Dutch colony. This island exhibits a rich and varied folklore expressed through magical dances, music and songs.
We will spend the morning visiting the fishing village of Riung. The people are a mix of Muslim Bugis and Bajau fishermen, originally from Sulawesi, and Bajawanese Roman Catholic farmers originally animists from the mountains. The farmers export copra, shallots, coconuts, and kapok. The fishermen export trochus shells, trepang (sea cucumbers), dried fish, yellowtail and skipjack tuna. The women weave and embroider sarongs with yellow and red flowers on a blue-black background. We will pay a visit to the nuns at the local orphanage school to observe the children and take them school supplies.
In the afternoon we will spend the rest of the day enjoying water sports on the white sand beach of one of the deserted islands, part of the Pulau Tujuhbelas (Seventeen Islands) National Reserve. At night we will continue sailing east to Maumere.
DAY 5 Wednesday, September 6 MAUMERE, FLORES
This morning we will spend time on Pulau Besar Island swimming and snorkeling. We continue east sailing the Flores Sea along the north coast while we have lunch on board. We will arrive in the largest town in Eastern Flores, Maumere, which was badly damaged by an earthquake in December, 1992. We first top in the busy market to learn about different fruit and vegetables with which we may not be familiar. We will take some time to visit the busy market. Then by van we will drive up int he mountains and visit Watublapi, a local village where we will see traditional dancing and customs including a demonstration of the complete process of making ikat (tie dyed) cloth beginning by making the thread from cotton, producing natural dyes, dying the thread, tying grass around the stretched thread to resist the dye, and the rest of the many steps to prepare the finished cloth. We will return to the ship.
DAY 6 Thursday, September 7 MAUMERE, MT. KELIMUTU, FLORES
After breakfast we will disembark at 5 AM and board a bus for a morning excursion south to the 5,544 ft. volcanic lakes at Mt. Kelimutu, the most fantastic sight in Nusa Tenggara if not all of Indonesia. The drive is through attractive scenery with spectacular mountain terrain, deep gorges, and rice terraces. Numerous picturesque villages along the way reflect the natural beauty of Flores. Mt. Kelimutu is famous for its three colored crater lakes, black, turquoise, and emerald green, colored by the chemicals in the rock. These craters are spectacular and offer a fitting focus to our day’s journey. There is an unforgettable view from the summit and we may hike along the rim.
After lunch at Ecolodge we will proceed to Moni village to to meet the local people and observe their lifestyles. The constant sound of running water through rice fields, fantastic views of surrounding volcanoes, and in the far distance view of the ocean all give this village a tranquil feeling. Here we will see a dance performance.
After lunch we will go to a Wologai traditional house belonging to the Lio tribe. We will finish our excursion at Ropa fishing village where we will board ship, have dinner and set sail to the west.
DAY 7 Friday, September 8 RIUNG, FLORES
We will stop by Riung Island for swimming and snorkeling before we head west across the Flores Sea where we are likely to see whales, dolphins, schools of tuna, and flying fish. Stopping at an island, we will be able to swim and snorkel. Back on board, there will be lectures on culture and natural history before dinner. We will watch the nightly departure of the Flying Foxes or fruit bats which fly over the ship by the thousands on their way from their day time resting place to the orchards of Flores.
DAY 8 Saturday, September 9 KOMODO NATIONAL PARK, FLORES
This morning we will arrive at Komodo National Park. Komodo’s big attraction is the giant lizard also known as the Komodo Dragon, the largest monitor lizard in the world. This lizard may grow to 12 feet long. The Komodo area is the original and only habitat in the world of this giant prehistoric reptile. Komodo, Rinca and other neighboring islands are now a National Park protecting this prehistoric species. We will take a mile hike through the park observing the trails of the Komodo Dragons and we see their lairs in the banks of the dry stream bed. A park ranger will escort us across the island to a protected viewing point in the National Park where we can watch the dragons at very close range. This island is also the home of other wildlife such as wild deer, feral pigs, wild banteng bulls, the sulfur crested cockatoos, noisy friar birds, and the mound building megapode birds. Wild orchids and staghorn ferns as well as other wild flowers hang from trees. These islands are made of limestone and are gradually subsiding into the sea. The islands only receive 16-20 inches of rain a year resulting in the islands being covered with dry savannah and lontar palm trees. On the beach you will have the opportunity to buy white, pink, yellow and black pearls which are cultured nearby at unbelievably cheap prices .
There is only one village on Komodo Island. The ancestors of the inhabitants (who were criminals on the mainland of Sumbawa) were exiled by the former Sultan of Bima. They live close to the sea and make their living fishing for squid from their small outrigger boats. They fish at night attracting the squid with the twinkling lights on their boats.
We will spend the rest of the afternoon swimming and snorkeling off the “pink beach,” so named because of the red coral which has colored the white sand. The diving and snorkeling in Komodo is world class with numerous multicolored fish in water clear as glass. We will sail to the north of the small fishing village where we may see at dusk thousands of fruit bats or flying foxes wake up after spending the day hanging upside down as they sleep on the mangrove trees and fly across the water to the mainland.
Tonight we will have a farewell party on the beach under the black star-filled sky. The crew will set up a fire of driftwood and will grill sate as part of our dinner. Music and lights will be provided by means of a battery .
DAY 9 Sunday, September 10 CANDI DASA, BALI
We will visit the Batu Cermin cave where the stalactites and stalagmites unite into huge pillars. The inhabitants of Labuan Bajo hid in these caves from Portuguese and Dutch invaders. Afterwards we can stroll and explore Labuan Bajo.
Our plane to Bali departs at 3:25 PM and arrives at 4:15 PM. Our guide Alit will meet us at the airport.
We will proceed to southeast Bali to Puri Bagus Candi Dasa, a luxurious resort on the ocean. On the way to the Karangasem Kingdom we will see Kusamba, a fishing village with its black volcanic sand, originally the principal port for the kingdom of Klungkung. We will pass the area devastated by the1963 eruption of Mt. Gunung. Huge boulders dot the fields. Rubble has been carted off for building purposes. Large stones form the foundations for rice terraces. But volcanic eruptions enrich the soil with minerals resulting in very fertile soil so that they farmers my put in three crops a year.
Puri Bagus Candi Dasa is another beautiful resort and your bungalow is in the middle of gardens, facing the ocean. We will have dinner in the open air dining room.
DAY 10 Monday, September 11 CANDI DASA, BALI
This morning we may swim or take a ride out to the huge rocks looming out of the ocean in one of the colorful outrigger fishing boats with eyes painted on their hulls.
We start our tour with a short drive to the Ujung Water Palace on the coast which was destroyed by the 1963 earthquake but has since been rebuilt. The building sits like a pearl in the middle of a pool surrounded by statues.
The Amlapura Palace, the Puri Kanginan, was the seat of the ruling branch of the dynasty since around the beginning of the 18th century. The architecture is European, Chinese and Balinese. We will tour the palace and its surrounding buildings.
One of the prettiest places in Bali is Tirta Ganga (Water of the Ganges). Built by the last raja of Karangasem, the water palace is a series of pools down the hillside, the water spewed from one pool to another from the mouths of carved animals. We will walk through this spectacular and lovely park-like area.
In the 16th century there was a migration of Hindu Majapahit refugees from east Java, escaping the domination of the Muslims. The people who populated Bali before this migration are said to be the residents of the Tenganan Bali Aga Village. This village is famous for its rare and exquisite double ikat cloth called kain gerinsing which means that both the woof and warp are tie-died to make the designs. This cloth is said to have magical qualities. Girls dance one of the most ancient ceremonial dances and men play the rare gamelon selanding, the iron-keyed metalophones. The lontar palm books which contain the customary and ritual law were said to have been bestowed by the Hindu god Indra.
Near to the hotel is a chocolate factory. They produce the dark chocolate and other flavored dark chocolate. They also produce coconut palm syrup, tropical maple syrup, sunblock, skin products etc.
During the afternoon you may swim, snorkel or take a boat ride or just relax at the hotel. We may go to a local restaurant for dinner and a dance performance.
DAY 11 Tuesday, September 12 LOVINA, BALI
We leave Candi Dasa this morning. As we drive along the coast we will see off shore the island of Nusa Penida. Facing it is Goa Lawah Bat Cave Temple. It is home to thousands of bats but the depth of the cave is unknown since it’s taboo to venture too deeply.
We will stop at what remains of the palace of the Klungkung Kingdom after the Dutch burned it in 1908. Although the smallest of Bali’s kingdoms, Klungkung was the greatest. The rajahs (or kings) of all the other kingdoms gave homage to the Raja of Klungkung in word, if not in action. The royal family was probably directly descended from the powerful 13th century Majapahit civilization of East Java. Until its fall to the Dutch in 1908, the palace remained the island’s political and cultural nucleus. Only two buildings remain after the Dutch assault, the Bale Kambang, or floating pavilion, and the Kerta Gosa or Hall of Justice. The ceiling of this building is painted in the Kamasan style of painting from the Golden Age of traditional Balinese style named after the village of Kamasan near Klungkung. The Hall of Justice ceiling displays nine layers of panels, most of them a story, Bima Swarga, from the Mahabharata, the Hindu epic, in which the Pandawa brother Bima goes to the underworld to rescue his parents. On the way he witnesses the tortures suffered by those who sin. He battles demons and gets to heaven in quest of the elixir of immortality. On the palace grounds is a museum which we will visit.
We will drive up Mt. Agung, a 10,300 ft. volcano, first stopping at Putung where we are able to view Padang Bai, one of Bali’s few natural harbors and the spot to catch ferries to points east. In this same area is the Sibetan Salak Fruit Plantation. High on Mt. Agung is Besakih, the mother temple, the most important temple in Bali, dating from before the 11th century. In 1963, during the Eka Dasa Rudra ceremony which is held only once every 100 years, Mt. Agung erupted killing 1600 people and leaving 86,000 people homeless. Besakih temple was spared. This volcano had not erupted since 1350 AD. The temples are dedicated to the Hindu gods Brahma the Creator, Vishnu the preserver, and Shiva the destroyer.
Next we ascend the 5,633 ft. Mt. Batur volcano for lunch on the edge of the crater lake, Danau Batur, at Penelokan. This caldera is 8.5 miles across. We are able to see the steam coming out of the lava flows on the side of the volcano which last erupted in 2000, shooting ash 300 meters above the crater. Another Bali Aga village is on the far side of the crater lake. These people leave their dead out to be eaten by wildlife.
We continue north over the volcano and we descend through mist and casuarina trees to the north shore, the site of the old Dutch capital of Singaraja. The east-west string of volcanoes divides Bali resulting in separate cultures north and south. Our luxurious resort hotel is Puri Bagus Lovina, situated on a black volcanic beach facing the Bali Sea. Your individual cottage is surrounded by lovely gardens. We will have dinner outdoors under the moon after a swim in the sparkling blue pool which seems to touch the sea.
DAY 12 Wednesday, September 13 LOVINA, BALI
This morning there is an opportunity to swim, to get a massage or to take a boat ride out into the ocean to see the dolphins before we begin our tour of the north shore area. The northern temples are more baroque than southern Bali. The land is dryer with less wet rice paddy. Cloves and coffee are grown in the north. We move on to Singaraja. Singaraja was formerly a royal court center, then the center of Dutch commerce and administration in Bali and major port before it silted in. Old Dutch houses line the shore at the Old Harbor. The city has an extensive Muslim and Chinese quarter. We will tour the open air Buleleng Market in Singaraja where you will learn the names of unusual fruits and vegetables. Then we will visit the Gedong Kirtya Museum, founded by the Dutch in 1928, in order to preserve its extensive collection of 3,000 lontar palm leaf books as well as tour the palace which is nearby.
We next visit the Pertenunam Berdikari Hand Woven Cloth Factory which specializes in beautiful replicas of antique textiles. We will watch thread being spun and cloth being woven.
We will stop at the Yuddha Mandalatama independence monument, then on to a Chinese temple, one of the few in Bali. From there we will go to Bukit Suci, the old Chinese cemetery.
A short distance away is the Buddhist temple, the Brahma Arama Vihara, which we will visit after lunch. This temple is the residence of Bali’s only Buddhist monk and it plays a central role in Buddhist religious life and education. On it’s upper terrace there is a small replica of Borobudur, the world’s biggest Buddhist monument in Central Java.
This afternoon you may swim in the pool, or snorkel in the ocean, get a massage, or read and relax. You will have another opportunity to buy pearls. Again, we will have dinner under the moon.
DAY 13 Thursday, September 14 UBUD, BALI
This morning we head south across the mountains of Bali. We will drive south a short distance where we will arrive at Gitgit Falls. We will hike down a mystical ravine into the jungle where we arrive at a spectacular waterfall in the midst of lush vegetation. Passing through forests of cloves and mandarin oranges, we will cross cross the extinct volcanos in the middle of the island, passing the crater lakes of Bratan, Buyan and Tamblingan. We will have lunch along the way.
We will stop at a coffee plantation as we descend the mountains where you can sample different kinds of coffee locally grown as well as see different kinds of plants such as ginger and the elusive civit cat.
On the way back to Ubud we will first stop at Mambal Village, where we will visit our guide Alit’s family compound. During this private visit some of his extensive family of 50 people will welcome us and explain family life, religious observances, and relationships.
We continue to Pertiwi Bungalows in Ubud. This resort is another beautiful place, peaceful and quiet although it is in town. We will find our rooms situated in the middle of gardens. Ubud is the center of painting in Bali, close to other art and craft centers such as wood and stone carving, silver and gold jewelry. Relax, swim, walk around, change money, and shop.
Tonight we see the Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppets) at 7:30 PM at Pondok Bambu on Monkey Forest Road.
Day 14 Friday, September 15 UBUD, BALI
This morning we go to the Tampaksiring area which has a long history. We will explore the Hindu temple of Tirta Empul Holy Spring. This spring is still most sacred to Gianyar Regency. It is here that the Barong masks were bathed. It is said that this spring was created by the Hindu goddess Indra who pierced the earth here to obtain the elixir of immortality. Many ancient monuments are found here.
At Gunung Kawi, Valley of the Kings, massive commemorative monuments to 11th century rajahs and ranis (kings and queens) are hewn into the cliffs on both sides of the river.
From there we will be guests at Tampaksiring Village, a typical Balinese village. We will visit a kindergarten and a school under the patronage of the Village Children Association. We will walk through the village back streets and be welcomed by a typical Balinese family offering us lunch in their family compound. We will learn how to weave delicate offerings from young banana leaves from a Brahmin woman, Ida Ayu, the champion artist of Bali. After lunch we will visit the family garden and orchards, introducing us to typical tropical plants.
This evening we see the Kecak Fire and Trance Dance at the Pura Dalem Ubud at 7:30 PM. During the Kecak Dance, 100 men provide background chanting while dancers depict the Ramayana story on the temple grounds. During the Trance Dance, a man goes into a trance while riding on a hobby horse and dances with his bare feet on burning coals of coconut husks. A priest is called to bring him out of his trance. Amazingly, his feet are unburned.
Day 15 Saturday, September 16 UBUD, BALI
We again return to the Tampaksiring area where we will have lunch in a scenic restaurant which overlooks a verdant gorge. After lunch we visit the 11th century Goa Gajah Elephant Cave which has as its entrance a fanged mouth. This appears to be an earth spirit clawing its way out of the cosmic mountain which is populated by a curious and often comical array of animals and phantoms. This was one of Bali’s principal Buddhist sanctuaries. In the caves are statues of the Hindu god, Ganesha, Shiva’s son, and linggas from the 8th to the 14th centuries. A pleasant walk down into the adjacent gorge with its clear and rushing stream and lush vegetation leads us to an ancient 8th century Buddhist site.
In the same area, Pejeng has at least 40 sites of ancient relics making it one of Indonesia’s richest archeological zones. The Pejeng Moon, dating from 300 BC, is thought to be the largest kettle drum cast in one piece similar to those made by the Dongsonculture of Vietnam. The Pejeng Temple Museum houses numerous displays from paleolithic stone tools through the pre-Hindu Bronze Age to the golden era of Balinese Hindu-Buddhism and beyond.
We will have lunch at a restaurant overlooking a breathtaking gorge before we go to the Bali Safari and Marine Park for a spectacular show called Bali Agung (Great Bali). This show is an historical tale about the events in Bali between 1179-1181. It is about the great king Sri Jaya Pangus who took a Chinese wife, Kang Ching Wei. As she was barren, he secretly had a child by Dewi Danu, the goddess of the lake. When she found out he was married already, she turned both the king and his wife into stone pillars. The Safari ride takes us through wilderness so that we may see animals which are not found in any other country such as the babi rusa. Along with an aquarium, there are animal shows.
Tonight at 7 P.M. at the Arma Museum, we will see the Wayang Wong dance performance.
Day 16 Sunday, September 17 UBUD, BALI
We leave early this morning to see the Barong and Keris Dance in Batubulan. The story is an episode from the Hindu epic, the Mahabharata. This dance is a confrontation between the wonderful Barong, a sort of lion symbolizing good, along with his buddy the monkey, and Rangda the witch symbolizing evil. Trying to defend the Barong, men in a trance turn their kris, or wavy knives, on themselves under Rangda’s spell but protected by the Barong and in a trance, they are unable to pierce their skin. Nearby we will visit the Taman Burung Bird Park. This park has beautiful gardens and exotic birds from all part of Indonesia. Next door, the Reptile Parkhas a variety of exotic reptiles including monitor lizards displayed in their habitat. We will have lunch in a nearby restaurant.
After lunch we will take a stroll in the the Monkey Forest at the end of the road. At the bottom of a ravine under a huge banyan tree there are pools and a small temple in addition to the larger temple along the path. Guard well your belongings and sun glasses since the monkeys are fast.
This is a free day to shop, swim, explore. You may want to go to the art museums in Ubud: Antonio Blanco Gallery, The Neka Museums, Komaneka Gallery , Seniwati Gallery, Hans Snell Gallery, Puri Lukisan Museum, Lempad Gallery, Rhudana Art Museum and Agung Rai Museum.
This evening at 7:30 PM there is a performance of the Legong of the Mahabharata at the Ubud Palace.
Day 17 Monday, September 18 TAIPEI, TAIWAN
This morning will be your last chance to shop, get a message, manicure, pedicure, and pack or visit the Monkey Forest if you haven’t gone yet.
We will be picked up after lunch at our hotel and taken to the airport for our 4:20 PM departure to Taipei, arriving at 9:35 PM. We pick up vouchers for the hotel at the EVA Airlines desk. Overnight is in the CHUTO Hotel paid for by EVA Airlines, confirmation #15002624.
Day 18 Tuesday, September 19 JFK AIRPORT, N.Y. USA
This morning we will be taken by van to the airport to catch our flight from Taipei which leaves at 7:50 AM. We will gain a day as we cross the International Date Line and arrive at JFK Airport at 10:45 AM. A shuttle bus will take us to Piscataway.
Since our flight departs Taipei 7:05 PM, we have the whole day to enjoy activities in Taipei. The National Palace Museum is a great attraction housing countless treasures which were carried away from Mainland China by Chiang Kai-shek.
The most famous of Taipei’s temples is Lung Shan or Dragon Mountain Temple, built in the early 1700s, to honor the island’s deities, Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy, and Ma Tsu, the goddess of the sea. The temple is renowned for its fine stone sculpture, wood carvings and bronze work.
Kong Miao, the Confucius temple, is a tranquil place, more peaceful than other temples. It honors the man who influenced Chinese philosophy for thousands of years.
The Bao-an Temple, is a gaudy monument to traditional Taoist or Chinese folk religion.
Lin An Tai Homestead is an example of a traditional Chinese home and garden.
Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall is a massive monument to the late president.
The Revolutionary Martyrs’ Shrine is dedicated to the heroes of China’s wars.
Snake Alley has stacks of cages filed with deadly hissing snakes good for potency, as well as herbal shops, tattoo parlors, fresh fruit stalls and hawkers of baubles and bangles..
Our departure from Taipei is at 7:05 PM for our flight back to the USA. We will cross the International Date Line and gain a day, arriving at J.F.K. Airport at 10:05 P.M. where we will go through customs. A free shuttle van will take us to Piscataway.
All scheduled events are subject to change depending upon the situation. For example, there are many festivals in Bali during the summer or dry season including spectacular funerals. If we have the opportunity to experience this kind of special event, we will alter the itinerary rather than do what was originally planned. In addition, inter-island flight schedules are subject to change.