Category Archives: Around Town

Personal posts — some social justice (Not in Our Town), some faith-related (Princeton United Methodist Church), some I-can’t-keep-from-writing-this

Bali on $300 a day: Insider Tour

THIS JUST IN –  last minute chance to go to Bali on an insider tour led by Kathleen Winn.  A friend who went on this tour last year is “wildly enthusiastic” and she lives in Princeton, hence my excuse for putting it up on Princeton Comment.  It’s a last minute chance, if interested contact 

balis below: 
From my friend: I’m sure you recall how wildly enthusiastic I was about my trip last August/September.  A very similar trip is going this year, again with Indonesia expert / private guide ( with no personal profit -only a love of the the country). Several people just had to drop out for medical reasons, opening up their spaces. The trip costs ~$2,700 including local flights (Bali-Flores round trip), the boat trip – all but airfare , which is about $1,100 right now. Most such trips are double or more, without the personal home visits and connections that are part of Kathy Winn’s trip.
What I found most meaningful were Buddhist Hindi and other ceremonies/visits. It brought far greater understanding of people with different traditions, cultures and religions.
Friday, September 1 DEPARTURE
Friday night, at 8:30 PM, we get a free shuttle in Piscataway to JFK airport.
Day 1  Saturday, September 2 
We leave J.F.K. on EVA Airlines at 1:45 AM early Saturday morning, September 2, proceeding directly to Taipei.
DAY 2 Sunday, September 3 KUTA, BALI
We arrive in Taipei at 5:45 AM.  En route we cross the International Date Line and lose a day.  We will change planes before we depart for Bali at 10:15 AM, arriving in Bali at 3:15 PM.
After we go through immigration, we will be met by our guide, Effendy Yassin.  He will take us to the Rani Hotel in Kuta, on the west coast of Bali, where we will check in.  We will find our rooms situated in the middle of gardens and near the ocean.  Relax, swim, walk around, change money.  We may watch an amazing sunset over the ocean from the beach.
DAY 3 Monday, September 4 LABUANBAJO, FLORES
This morning we depart from the hotel at 6 AM  to catch our 8 AM  flight east from Denpasar over Mt. Rinjani, the highest volcano in Indonesia, found on Lombok Island.  Continuing to the east we fly over Mt. Tambora, on Sumbawa Island.  This volcano had consisted of two soaring cones, each more than 13,000 feet, visible from nearly 19 miles at sea.  It last erupted in 1815 discharging more than 1000 feet of cone into the air and causing the deaths of 90,000 people either from its ash or subsequent starvation of all the people on this and neighboring islands.  Throughout the world 1816 was referred to as “the year without summer.”
We arrive in Labuanbajo at 9:15 AM.  It is a coastal town and fishing village in western Flores with a beautiful island filled bay and harbor full of trimarins, canoes, single-hulled sailboats, and inboard motor craft. The Muslim Bugis and Bajo seafarers, from Sulawesi to the north, have settled close to the water and are the fishermen.  In fact this town is named for the ethnic Bajo people since Labuhan means harbor, “Harbor of the Bajo.” They catch large quantities of squid which are salted and sent to Singapore.  The squid are attracted to the lights on top of the nets attached to bagans or off shore movable platforms.  When enough have gathered, the net is dropped.  The Christians live across the main road away from the sea.  These farmers grow rice, manioc (tapioca), corn, oranges, jackfruit and other crops.   During the night the ship will have returned to Labuanbajo where we will be anchored.
After our arrival, we will be taken to the top of the hill outside of Labuanbajo where we will visit Melo Village.  They will welcome us with a ceremony.  Then they will perform the caci or whip dance for us and demonstrate their culture.  You will be able to participate.
We proceed to the harbor where we will meet the crew and board the Tarata, our home for the next six nights.
After lunch on board we will sail to Sabolan Island.  This is a tiny uninhabited island with a white sand beach and underwater coral gardens.  We will spend the afternoon swimming and snorkeling on this beautiful island.   To further your enjoyment of the trip, if there is time today, there will be a lecture on a subject which pertains to Indonesian culture, history or natural history.
DAY 4 Tuesday, September 5   RIUNG VILLAGE, FLORES
During the night we will sail east along the north coast of Flores, following its backbone which is an astounding string of active and extinct volcanoes along its length.  Discovered by the Portuguese explorers in 1512, who named it Capo de Flores or Cape of Flowers, deep ravines, rugged valleys and thick tropical forests have separated population groups and created different and distinctive cultures on this island.  Because of the Portuguese, 85% of the population is Catholic and the church dominates every tiny village.  Only in the ports are there any number of Muslims.  The Dutch eventually took over this island from the Portuguese in the 16th century when Indonesia became a Dutch colony.  This island exhibits a rich and varied folklore expressed through magical dances, music and songs.
We will spend the morning visiting the fishing village of Riung.  The people are a mix of Muslim Bugis and Bajau fishermen, originally from Sulawesi, and Bajawanese Roman Catholic farmers originally animists from the mountains.  The farmers export copra, shallots, coconuts, and kapok.  The fishermen export trochus shells, trepang (sea cucumbers), dried fish, yellowtail and skipjack tuna.  The women weave and embroider sarongs with yellow and red flowers on a blue-black background.  We will pay a visit to the nuns at the local orphanage school to observe the children and take them school supplies.
In the afternoon we will spend the rest of the day enjoying water sports on the white sand beach of one of the deserted islands, part of the Pulau Tujuhbelas (Seventeen Islands) National Reserve.  At night we will continue sailing east to Maumere.
DAY 5  Wednesday, September 6 MAUMERE, FLORES
This morning we will spend time on Pulau Besar Island swimming and snorkeling.  We continue east sailing the Flores Sea along the north coast while we have lunch on board.  We will arrive in the largest town in Eastern Flores, Maumere, which was badly damaged by an earthquake in December, 1992.  We first top in the busy market to learn about different fruit and vegetables with which we may not be familiar.  We will take some time to visit the busy market.  Then by van we will drive up int he mountains and visit Watublapi, a local village where we will see traditional dancing and customs including a demonstration of the complete process of making ikat (tie dyed) cloth beginning by making the thread from cotton, producing natural dyes, dying the thread, tying grass around the stretched thread to resist the dye, and the rest of the many steps to prepare the finished cloth.  We will return to the ship.
DAY 6  Thursday, September 7  MAUMERE, MT. KELIMUTU, FLORES
 After breakfast we will disembark at 5 AM  and board a bus for a morning excursion south to the 5,544 ft. volcanic lakes at Mt. Kelimutu, the most fantastic sight in Nusa Tenggara if not all of Indonesia.  The drive is through attractive scenery with spectacular mountain terrain, deep gorges, and rice terraces.  Numerous picturesque villages along the way reflect the natural beauty of Flores.  Mt. Kelimutu is famous for its three colored crater lakes, black, turquoise, and emerald green, colored by the chemicals in the rock.  These craters are spectacular and offer a fitting focus to our day’s journey.  There is an unforgettable view from the summit and we may hike along the rim.
After lunch at Ecolodge we will proceed to Moni village to to meet the local people and observe their lifestyles.  The constant sound of running water through rice fields, fantastic views of surrounding volcanoes, and in the far distance view of the ocean all give this village a tranquil feeling.  Here we will see a dance performance.
After lunch we will go to a Wologai traditional house belonging to the Lio tribe.  We will finish our excursion at Ropa fishing village where we will board ship, have dinner and set sail to the west.
DAY 7 Friday, September 8 RIUNG, FLORES
We will stop by Riung Island for swimming and snorkeling before we head west across the Flores Sea where we are likely to see whales, dolphins, schools of tuna, and flying fish.  Stopping at an island, we will be able to swim and snorkel.  Back on board, there will be lectures on culture and natural history before dinner.  We will watch the nightly departure of the Flying Foxes or fruit bats which fly over the ship by the thousands on their way from their day time resting place to the orchards of Flores.
This morning we will arrive at Komodo National Park.  Komodo’s big attraction is the giant lizard also known as the Komodo Dragon, the largest monitor lizard in the world.  This lizard may grow to 12 feet long.  The Komodo area is the original and only habitat in the world of this giant prehistoric reptile.  Komodo, Rinca and other neighboring islands are now a National Park protecting this prehistoric species.  We will take a mile hike through the park observing the trails of the Komodo Dragons and we see their lairs in the banks of the dry stream bed.  A park ranger will escort us across the island to a protected viewing point in the National Park where we can watch the dragons at very close range.  This island is also the home of other wildlife such as wild deer, feral pigs, wild banteng bulls, the sulfur crested cockatoos, noisy friar birds, and the mound building megapode birds.  Wild orchids and staghorn ferns as well as other wild flowers hang from trees.  These islands are made of limestone and are gradually subsiding into the sea.  The islands only receive 16-20 inches of rain a year resulting in the islands being covered with dry savannah and lontar palm trees.  On the beach you will have the opportunity to buy white, pink, yellow and black pearls which are cultured nearby at unbelievably cheap prices .
There is only one village on Komodo Island.  The ancestors of the inhabitants (who were criminals on the mainland of Sumbawa) were exiled by the former Sultan of Bima.  They live close to the sea and make their living fishing for squid from their small outrigger boats.  They fish at night attracting the squid with the twinkling lights on their boats.
 We will spend the rest of the afternoon swimming and snorkeling off the “pink beach,” so named because of the red coral which has colored the white sand.  The diving and snorkeling in Komodo is world class with numerous multicolored fish in water clear as glass.   We will sail to the north of the small fishing village where we may see at dusk thousands of fruit bats or flying foxes wake up after spending the day hanging upside down as they sleep on the mangrove trees and fly across the water to the mainland.
Tonight we will have a farewell party on the beach under the black star-filled sky.  The crew will set up a fire of driftwood and will grill sate as part of our dinner.  Music and lights will be provided by means of a battery .
DAY 9 Sunday, September 10 CANDI DASA, BALI
We will visit the Batu Cermin cave where the stalactites and stalagmites unite into huge pillars.  The inhabitants of Labuan Bajo hid in these caves from Portuguese and Dutch invaders.  Afterwards we can stroll and explore Labuan Bajo.
Our plane to Bali departs at 3:25 PM and arrives at 4:15 PM.  Our guide Alit will meet us at the airport.
We will proceed to southeast Bali to Puri Bagus Candi Dasa, a luxurious resort on the ocean.  On the way to the Karangasem Kingdom we will see Kusamba, a fishing village with its black volcanic sand, originally the principal port for the kingdom of Klungkung.  We will pass the area devastated by the1963 eruption of Mt. Gunung.  Huge boulders dot the fields.  Rubble has been carted off for building purposes.  Large stones form the foundations for rice terraces.  But volcanic eruptions enrich the soil with minerals resulting in very fertile soil so that they farmers my put in three crops a year.
Puri Bagus Candi Dasa is another beautiful resort and your bungalow is in the middle of gardens, facing the ocean.  We will have dinner in the open air dining room.
DAY 10 Monday, September 11     CANDI DASA, BALI
This morning we may swim or take a ride out to the huge rocks looming out of the ocean in one of the colorful outrigger fishing boats with eyes painted on their hulls.
We start our tour with a short drive to the Ujung Water Palace on the coast which was destroyed by the 1963 earthquake but has since been rebuilt.  The building sits like a pearl in the middle of a pool surrounded by statues.
The Amlapura Palace, the Puri Kanginan, was the seat of the ruling branch of the dynasty since around the beginning of the 18th century.  The architecture is European, Chinese and Balinese.  We will tour the palace and its surrounding buildings.
One of the prettiest places in Bali is Tirta Ganga (Water of the Ganges).  Built by the last raja of Karangasem, the water palace is a series of pools down the hillside, the water spewed from one pool to another from the mouths of carved animals.  We will walk through this spectacular and lovely park-like area.   
 In the 16th century there was a migration of Hindu Majapahit refugees from east Java, escaping the domination of the Muslims.  The people who populated Bali before this migration are said to be the residents of the Tenganan Bali Aga Village.  This village is famous for its rare and exquisite double ikat cloth called kain gerinsing  which means that both the woof and warp are tie-died to make the designs.  This cloth is said to have magical qualities.  Girls dance one of the most ancient ceremonial dances and men play the rare gamelon selanding, the iron-keyed metalophones.  The lontar palm books which contain the customary and ritual law were said to have been bestowed by the Hindu god Indra.
Near to the hotel is a chocolate factory.  They produce the dark chocolate and other flavored dark chocolate. They also produce coconut palm syrup, tropical maple syrup, sunblock, skin products etc.
During the afternoon you may swim, snorkel or take a boat ride or just relax at the hotel.  We may go to a local restaurant for dinner and a dance performance.
DAY 11  Tuesday, September 12  LOVINA, BALI
We leave Candi Dasa this morning.  As we drive along the coast we will see off shore the island of Nusa Penida.  Facing it is Goa Lawah Bat Cave Temple.  It is home to thousands of bats but the depth of the cave is unknown since it’s taboo to venture too deeply.
We will stop at what remains of the palace of the Klungkung Kingdom after the Dutch burned it in 1908.  Although the smallest of Bali’s kingdoms, Klungkung was the greatest.  The rajahs (or kings) of all the other kingdoms gave homage to the Raja of Klungkung in word, if not in action.  The royal family was probably directly descended from the powerful 13th century Majapahit civilization of East Java.  Until its fall to the Dutch in 1908, the palace remained the island’s political and cultural nucleus.  Only two buildings remain after the Dutch assault, the Bale Kambang, or floating pavilion, and the Kerta Gosa or Hall of Justice.  The ceiling of this building is painted in the Kamasan style of painting from the Golden Age of traditional Balinese style named after the village of Kamasan near Klungkung. The Hall of Justice ceiling displays nine layers of panels, most of them a story, Bima Swarga, from the Mahabharata, the Hindu epic, in which the Pandawa brother Bima goes to the underworld to rescue his parents.  On the way he witnesses the tortures suffered by those who sin.  He battles demons and gets to heaven in quest of the elixir of immortality.  On the palace grounds is a museum which we will visit.
We will drive up Mt. Agung, a 10,300 ft. volcano, first stopping at Putung where we are able to view Padang Bai, one of Bali’s few natural harbors and the spot to catch ferries to points east.  In this same area is the Sibetan Salak Fruit Plantation.  High on Mt. Agung is Besakih, the mother temple, the most important temple in Bali, dating from before the 11th century.  In 1963, during the Eka Dasa Rudra ceremony which is held only once every 100 years, Mt. Agung erupted killing 1600 people and leaving 86,000 people homeless.  Besakih temple was spared. This volcano had not erupted since 1350 AD.  The temples are dedicated to the Hindu gods Brahma the Creator, Vishnu the preserver, and Shiva the destroyer.
Next we ascend the 5,633 ft. Mt. Batur volcano for lunch on the edge of the crater lake, Danau Batur, at Penelokan.  This caldera is 8.5 miles across.  We are able to see the steam coming out of the lava flows on the side of the volcano which last erupted in 2000, shooting ash 300 meters above the crater.  Another Bali Aga village is on the far side of the crater lake.  These people leave their dead out to be eaten by wildlife.
  We continue north over the volcano and we descend through mist and casuarina trees to the north shore, the site of the old Dutch capital of Singaraja.  The east-west string of volcanoes divides Bali resulting in separate cultures north and south.  Our luxurious resort hotel is Puri Bagus Lovina, situated on a black volcanic beach facing the Bali Sea.  Your individual cottage is surrounded by lovely gardens.   We will have dinner outdoors under the moon after a swim in the sparkling blue pool which seems to touch the sea.
DAY 12  Wednesday, September 13 LOVINA, BALI
This morning there is an opportunity to swim, to get a massage or to take a boat ride out into the ocean to see the dolphins before we begin our tour of the north shore area.  The northern temples are more baroque than southern Bali.  The land is dryer with less wet rice paddy.  Cloves and coffee are grown in the north. We move on to Singaraja.  Singaraja was formerly a royal court center, then the center of Dutch commerce and administration in Bali and major port before it silted in.  Old Dutch houses line the shore at the Old Harbor. The city has an extensive Muslim and Chinese quarter.  We will tour the open air Buleleng Market in Singaraja where you will learn the names of unusual fruits and vegetables.  Then we will visit the Gedong Kirtya Museum, founded by the Dutch in 1928, in order to preserve its extensive collection of 3,000 lontar palm leaf books as well as tour the palace which is nearby.
We next visit  the Pertenunam Berdikari Hand Woven Cloth Factory which specializes in beautiful replicas of antique textiles.  We will watch thread being spun and cloth being woven.
We will stop at the Yuddha Mandalatama independence monument, then on to a Chinese temple, one of the few in Bali.  From there we will go to Bukit Suci, the old Chinese cemetery.
A short distance away is the Buddhist temple, the Brahma Arama Vihara, which we will visit after lunch.  This temple is the residence of Bali’s only Buddhist monk and it plays a central role in Buddhist religious life and education. On it’s upper terrace there is a small replica of Borobudur, the world’s biggest Buddhist monument in Central Java.
This afternoon you may swim in the pool, or snorkel in the ocean, get a massage, or read and relax.  You will have another opportunity to buy pearls.  Again, we will have dinner under the moon.
DAY 13  Thursday, September 14  UBUD, BALI
This morning we head south across the mountains of Bali.  We will drive south a short distance where we will arrive at Gitgit Falls.  We will hike down a mystical ravine into the jungle where we arrive at a spectacular waterfall in the midst of lush vegetation.  Passing through forests of cloves and mandarin oranges, we will cross cross the extinct volcanos in the middle of the island, passing the crater lakes of BratanBuyan and Tamblingan.  We will have lunch along the way.
We will stop at a coffee plantation as we descend the mountains where you can sample different kinds of coffee locally grown as well as see different kinds of plants such as ginger and the elusive civit cat.
On the way back to Ubud we will first stop at Mambal Village, where we will visit our guide Alit’s family compound.  During this private visit some of his extensive family of 50 people will welcome us and explain family life, religious observances, and relationships.
We continue to Pertiwi Bungalows in Ubud.  This resort is another beautiful place, peaceful and quiet although it is in town.  We will find our rooms situated in the middle of gardens.  Ubud is the center of painting in Bali, close to other art and craft centers such as wood and stone carving, silver and gold jewelry.  Relax, swim, walk around, change money, and shop.
Tonight we see the Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppets) at 7:30 PM at Pondok Bambu on Monkey Forest Road.
Day 14 Friday, September 15 UBUD, BALI
This morning we go to the Tampaksiring area which has a long history.  We will explore the Hindu temple of Tirta Empul Holy Spring.  This spring is still most sacred to Gianyar Regency.  It is here that the Barong masks were bathed.  It is said that this spring was created by the Hindu goddess Indra who pierced the earth here to obtain the elixir of immortality.  Many ancient monuments are found here.
At Gunung Kawi, Valley of the Kings, massive commemorative monuments to 11th century rajahs and ranis (kings and queens) are hewn into the cliffs on both sides of the river.
From there we will be guests at Tampaksiring Village, a typical Balinese village.  We will visit a kindergarten and a school under the patronage of the Village Children Association.  We will walk through the village back streets and be welcomed by a typical Balinese family offering us lunch in their family compound.  We will learn how to weave delicate offerings from young banana leaves from a Brahmin woman, Ida Ayu, the champion artist of Bali.  After lunch we will visit the family garden and orchards, introducing us to typical tropical plants.
This evening we see the Kecak Fire and Trance Dance at the Pura Dalem Ubud at 7:30 PM.  During the Kecak Dance, 100 men provide background chanting while dancers depict the Ramayana story on the temple grounds.  During the Trance Dance, a man goes into a trance while riding on a hobby horse and dances with his bare feet on burning coals of coconut husks.  A priest is called to bring him out of his trance.  Amazingly, his feet are unburned.
Day 15 Saturday, September 16 UBUD, BALI
We again return to the Tampaksiring area where we will have lunch in a scenic restaurant which overlooks a verdant gorge.  After lunch we visit the 11th century Goa Gajah Elephant Cave which has as its entrance a fanged mouth. This appears to be an earth spirit clawing its way out of the cosmic mountain which is populated by a curious and often comical array of animals and phantoms.  This was one of Bali’s principal Buddhist sanctuaries.  In the caves are statues of the Hindu god, Ganesha, Shiva’s son, and linggas from the 8th to the 14th centuries.  A pleasant walk down into the adjacent gorge with its clear and rushing stream and lush vegetation leads us to an ancient 8th century Buddhist site.
In the same area, Pejeng has at least 40 sites of ancient relics making it one of Indonesia’s richest archeological zones.  The Pejeng Moon, dating from 300 BC, is thought to be the largest kettle drum cast in one piece similar to those made by the Dongsonculture of Vietnam.  The Pejeng Temple Museum houses numerous displays from paleolithic stone tools through the pre-Hindu Bronze Age to the golden era of Balinese Hindu-Buddhism and beyond.
We will have lunch at a restaurant overlooking a breathtaking gorge before we go to the Bali Safari and Marine Park for a spectacular show called Bali Agung (Great Bali).  This show is an historical tale about the events in Bali between 1179-1181.  It is about the great king Sri Jaya Pangus who took a Chinese wife, Kang Ching Wei.  As she was barren, he secretly had a child by Dewi Danu, the goddess of the lake.  When she found out he was married already, she turned both the king and his wife into stone pillars.  The Safari ride takes us through wilderness so that we may see animals which are not found in any other country such as the babi rusa.  Along with an aquarium, there are animal shows.
Tonight at 7 P.M. at the Arma Museum, we will see the Wayang Wong dance performance.
Day 16 Sunday, September 17  UBUD, BALI
We leave early this morning to see the Barong and Keris Dance in Batubulan.  The story is an episode from the Hindu epic, the Mahabharata.  This dance is a confrontation between the wonderful Barong, a sort of lion symbolizing good, along with his buddy the monkey, and Rangda the witch symbolizing evil.  Trying to defend the Barong, men in a trance turn their kris, or wavy knives, on themselves under Rangda’s spell but protected by the Barong and in a trance, they are unable to pierce their skin.  Nearby we will visit the Taman Burung Bird Park.  This park has beautiful gardens and exotic birds from all part of Indonesia.  Next door, the Reptile Parkhas a variety of exotic reptiles including monitor lizards displayed in their habitat.   We will have lunch in a nearby restaurant.
After lunch we will take a stroll in the the Monkey Forest at the end of the road.  At the bottom of a ravine under a huge banyan tree there are pools and a small temple in addition to the larger temple along the path.  Guard well your belongings and sun glasses since the monkeys are fast.
This is a free day to shop, swim, explore.  You may want to go to the art museums in Ubud:  Antonio Blanco Gallery, The Neka Museums, Komaneka Gallery , Seniwati Gallery, Hans Snell Gallery, Puri Lukisan Museum, Lempad Gallery, Rhudana Art Museum and Agung Rai Museum.
This evening at 7:30 PM there is a performance of the Legong of the Mahabharata at the Ubud Palace.
Day 17 Monday, September 18 TAIPEI, TAIWAN
This morning will be your last chance to shop, get a message, manicure, pedicure, and pack or visit the Monkey Forest if you haven’t gone yet.
We will be picked up after lunch at our hotel and taken to the airport for our 4:20 PM departure to Taipei, arriving at 9:35 PM.  We pick up vouchers for the hotel at the EVA Airlines desk.  Overnight is in the CHUTO Hotel paid for by EVA Airlines, confirmation #15002624.
Day 18   Tuesday, September 19  JFK AIRPORT, N.Y. USA
This morning we will be taken by van to the airport to catch our flight from Taipei which leaves at 7:50 AM.  We will gain a day as we cross the International Date Line and arrive at JFK Airport at 10:45 AM.  A shuttle bus will take us to Piscataway.
Since our flight departs Taipei 7:05 PM, we have the whole day to enjoy activities in Taipei.  The National Palace Museum is a great attraction housing countless treasures which were carried away from Mainland China by Chiang Kai-shek.
The most famous of Taipei’s  temples is  Lung Shan or Dragon Mountain Temple, built in the early 1700s, to honor the island’s deities, Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy, and Ma Tsu, the goddess of the sea.  The temple is renowned for its fine stone sculpture, wood carvings and bronze work.
Kong Miao, the Confucius temple, is a tranquil place, more peaceful than other temples.  It honors the man who influenced Chinese philosophy for thousands of years.
The Bao-an Temple, is a gaudy monument to traditional Taoist or Chinese folk religion.
Lin An Tai Homestead is an example of a traditional Chinese home and garden.
Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall is a massive monument to the late president.
The Revolutionary Martyrs’ Shrine is dedicated to the heroes of China’s wars.
Snake Alley has stacks of cages filed with deadly hissing snakes good for potency, as well as herbal shops, tattoo parlors, fresh fruit stalls and hawkers of baubles and bangles..  
Our departure from Taipei is at 7:05 PM  for our flight back to the USA.   We will cross the International Date Line and gain a day, arriving at J.F.K. Airport at 10:05 P.M. where we will go through customs.  A free shuttle van will take us to Piscataway.
All scheduled events are subject to change depending upon the situation.  For example, there are many festivals in Bali during the summer or dry season including spectacular funerals.  If we have the opportunity to experience this kind of special event, we will alter the itinerary rather than do what was originally planned.  In addition, inter-island flight schedules are subject to change.

Cross your fingers: health news

Today’s healthcare news:

I’ll start with Juliet Eilperin’s coverage of the healthcare bill in the Washington Post, “From hospitals, doctors, and patients, a last gasp of opposition to the Senate health-care bill,” A Daily Princetonian alumna, the Post’s senior national affairs correspondent, she tells of how hospitals have mounted unusual lobbying efforts. ‘While McConnell had been pressing for a vote on the measure before the end of June, the delay gave opponents more time to marshal their arguments and make their case to lawmakers. This final lobbying push represents opponents’ best chance of derailing McConnell’s final drive to passage, which continues to look uncertain.’

Today the CEO of Incyte, Herve Hoppenot, speaks at the Princeton Regional chamber lunch. Look for me in a striped jacket. At age six I ‘worked’ in my parents’ cancer research lab and 70 years later I have a vested interest in new cancer cures.


Welcome to Princeton!


tom welcome
Tom Shelton, children’s choir director at Princeton United Methodist Church, welcomes three and four-year-olds to musical fun during Sunday morning Sunday School.

Dear new neighbors! Welcoming people to Princeton is one of my favorite things to do. For families with young children, here is a sprinkling of not-so-obvious opportunities that are good to know about for this summer and fall.

Music Together, for your 3 year old and even your new baby, is a cost-effective activity for families. Did you know that children get all their tone discernment before the age of 5? With this program, the parents learn the songs (with weekly classes of fun activities with the kids) and the tunes are integrated into your daily life. There are classes everywhere including at my church at the corner of Nassau, opposite the Garden Theater). Which brings up —

Princeton United Methodist Church – we have excellent music programs for all ages, even as young as three. Pictured above, our children’s choir director, nationally known, is Tom Shelton. We welcome a new preacher, Trey Wince  on July 16 and begin monthly alternative worship services on July 23. If Sunday morning attendance isn’t for you, but you’d like to meet some families with kids, come to a ‘fun night’ on July 16, 7 p.m. and on later dates this summer, details here.

Another good place to meet families with kids is Marquand Park. Playgroups seem to congregate there.  Harrison Street Park has good 3-year-old opportunities (sand box, good swings) but gets fewer visitors. And then there’s the little Sigmund Park, named after a beloved mayor, opposite Westminster Choir College or Mary Moss park, if it’s reopened, in the Witherspoon Jackson neighborhood. In the fall, try the events at Cotsen Children’s Library, part of Firestone at the university but you can also just browse. And of course the story hours at the Princeton Public Library are probably the most populated.

Newcomers may not realize that the “go-to” newspaper for local news is an unassuming little paper called Town Topics. It doesn’t look like much, but it’s generally accurate. You’ve been getting it on Wednesdays. I’m very interested in newspapers because I was editor, for two decades, of U.S. 1 Newspaper known online as PrincetonInfo.  The sister monthly paper is the Princeton Echo. U.S. 1 has newsstands and pick-up points in town (the closest to us is Bank of America or Whole Earth) but its major distribution is to businesses – retail and corporate – in greater Princeton, which encompasses three counties and 27 municipalities. People love it for many reasons but an important one is the “go-to” event calendar. I’m retired, but am still on the masthead thanks to an ever-loyal boss.  Here is his account of the area newspaper scene.

When visitors come to town (you will get plenty, Princeton is a draw), they’ll want to see Einstein’s house, but there are several other Einstein-mania sites: the mini museum in back of Landau’s and the sculpture. a good photo-op, at the intersection of Bayard and Nassau.

If you have concerns about social justice, I work with Not in Our Town Princeton, and we do first Monday “Continuing Conversations on Race” at the Princeton Public Library. We will also have a booth at the – mark your calendar – Community Night at the community pool, free admission, bring bathing suits, August 1, 5 to 8.

Other town-wide parties: the Thursday night concerts at the Princeton Shopping Center and McCarter Theatre’s open house on August 23 (food and free entertainment). Students at Princeton University put on a rip-roaring kids show in the summer, apparently suitable for age 3 as they encourage three-and-under to attend free; this year it’s about Amelia Earhart, 

And so you know what I look like, here is a picture of me, featuring my button collecting interest, used here at Princeton Comment.

Whew! Now that I’ve done this I’m going to post it on my blog – without your names of course – to help other families with kids. Do comment on anything that you’ve found. First impressions of a new town are priceless and easily forgotten, so pass them on!

Your Jugtown neighbor, Barbara Fox

Leni Morante: Turning the Page

Leni Morante at work

Looking back can be so much fun, especially when your past can encourage someone else’s future. Léni Paquet-Morante,  an artist who has kept touch with me over several decades, called with her latest news. I took vicarious joy in what she is doing now.

Morante had been busy with raising three children, volunteering in their schools, rehabbing an historic house, and supporting the successful career of her sculptor husband, G. Frederick Morante. In 1984 they met at the Johnson Atelier,  where she did bronze, copper, and clay sculpture. I wrote about her husband’s work for U.S. 1 Newspaper in the late ’80s. His Daedulus remains one of my favorite pieces, and his ‘Relative’  is one of the large bronzes that J. Seward Johnson commissioned for Grounds for Sculpture.

Thirty years later (can it really be that long ago?) I am retired, Fred is on the staff at the Digital Atelier, and Leni has turned the page in her career. With her children grown, she carved out a space next to the kitchen for her studio and declared independence from cooking dinner.

morante Untitled-Rosemont-061017-30x30-for-website580
Leni Morante: June 11, 2017 In 2017, acrylic on linen, Untitled: Rosemont – 30 x 30

Leni has a solo show opening Wednesday, July 5, at Princeton University’s 113 Dickinson Hall, called “Atmosphere, Place an Time,” described as “paintings that represent familiar local landscapes but which also hint at something more complex.” Best of all, she has an artist residency award at the Lacawac Field Sanctuary in Lake Ariel, PA, and will have two weeks of focused studio and plein-air work next October.

I smiled and smiled when Leni spoke of being recognized with a two-week residency because in 1980 — at almost exactly the same point in my career, I had had a similar opportunity. I landed an NEA Fellowship to a dance critics workshop at the American Dance Festival at Duke University in Durham, North Carolina. Along with a dozen journalist from around the country, I took movement classes, saw concerts, wrote reviews, and was totally immersed in dance.

It was triply sweet.

b at adf cropped
Barbara Figge at ADF 1960
  • I could leave family cares behind for three weeks.
  • It was my second visit to ADF: 20 years before I had gone to ADF when it was at Connecticut College. That summer persuaded me not to a pursue a dance career. Now, three children later, struggling to make my mark as a journalist, I could go back to ADF as a working dance critic.
  • I returned to my ‘stomping ground.” ADF had moved to my alma mater, Duke University.
American Dance Festival 1980, Duke University. Student learning how to do a “Slow Walk” with choreograher Kei Takei

So, yes, I can truly rejoice with Leni Morante. She is using every available minute to paint. Right now she has a day job, so she paints on weekends, but in October — I smile and encourage her painting sabbatical. Meanwhile, with vicarious joy, I will admire her work.

 “Atmosphere, Place, and Time,” paintings by Léni Paquet-Morante, will be on view starting Wednesday, July 5, at 113 Dickinson Hall. This gallery, curated by Dana Lichtstrahl, is sponsored by Princeton University’s Center for Gender and Sexuality Studies and is open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. A “meet the artist” reception is Friday, July 14, noon to 2 p.m. Her home-based studio is in Hamilton, NJ. Her portfolio since 1984 includes painting, bronze,copper, and clay sculpture, some of which is represented in NJ corporate collections, private collections locally and internationally, and as public art. A full CV and other works can be seen on her website Requests to meet the artist and/or for additional image files can be made through or cell 609-610- 3631.

College Prep: money makes the difference

Paying to take a Princeton Review SAT course seemed, in the mid 1980s, grossly unfair to those who couldn’t afford it.  But we had our kids take them. It helped one win a scholarship and the others learned test-taking smarts useful later.

Princeton Review had recently been founded by an unabashedly aggressive marketer,  John Katzman.  He had gone to a toney prep school on the Upper East Side and then to Princeton University.  For a U.S. 1 article, he posed for a photo with a company logo busting off his T-shirt pecs like Superman’s.  In those early days he hired cool-looking Princeton undergraduates to berate, cajole, and joke privileged teens into studying hard for the SAT.  A big part of the appeal, I heard, was their profanity. In the genteel ’80s it must have been exciting to have teachers, not much older than their students, using forbidden words.

Princeton Review went public, was bought back, and is now owned by It has 4,000 teachers and tutors, lots of online resources, and has published more than 150 print and digital books.

What is it about this Ivy-League school that encourages educational start-ups? Triggering this trip down memory lane is the announcement from Labyrinth Bookstore.

Plan to attend Labryinth Books’ free 1 hour seminar on Saturday, July 8, at 3 p.m. Kevin Wong—co-founder of Princeton Tutoring and wongPrepMaven.—will share a framework for how to think properly about the college admissions and preparation process. Wong is a mentor at the Princeton University Entrepreneurial Hub (eHub) and is an Executive Board Member of the Asian American Alumni Association of Princeton (A4P). Kevin and his brother were engineering majors at Princeton and had successful careers as strategy consultants and hedge fund operators. They now apply their data and research-backed problem solving skills to the college preparation process. Their unique approach places a heavy emphasis on personal development, character, and service as key components of college admissions success.

After graduating from Princeton in 2005, Kevin Wong and his brother Greg founded Princeton Tutoring. It resembles Princeton Review so closely that their websites list the caveat “Not affiliated with Princeton Review.”

Another seeming difference is that the Wongs are dedicated to “giving back,” supporting local and international educational charities. Many college admission aids are free and online.

Still, the workshop can be pricey, even at a discount. For help in writing the college essay, students can attend a three-day workshop, based at Princeton Theological Seminary, for only $399, reduced from $900.

Today’s teens feel like they need to have their game face on as early as 8th grade. So to encourage the worried, Princeton Tutoring offers a three-hour “get your resume ready in high school” workshop for $199, reduced from $500. They call it “strategic planning.”

I’ve heard from very satisfied parents that these consultations really work.

But I’m left standing at square one. It’s hard for first generation college applicants to find their way through the maze when this is all new to their parents. What about those who don’t have the prep school counselors and the money for private tutors. Isn’t this yet another troubling example of privilege?

Yes, I’m talking about white privilege.  I certainly had it. Concerns over my privilege won’t keep me from supporting my grandchildren whatever way I can, but I think about how, on my mother’s side, my grandmother and all her sisters were college graduates and that was in the 19th century. On my father’s side, his immigrant father forbade him to go to college but his mother prevailed. He pulled himself and his siblings up by his bootstraps.

I’m happy to see that the Wongs do offer free stuff. They have an advice blog and some free seminars, like the one at Labyrinth.  Their consultants can work by the hour, a cost-effective substitute for the workshops.

Some students will succeed no matter what. In interviewing students for the college I attended, I can pick them out. Like my very motivated father, they will make it, no matter what. For the kid with less drive, less genius — for the kid in the middle, it’s worth spending the money or the time to get the inside information. Money can make the difference.





No that’s not what Jesus said

To read “The strange origins of the GOP ideology that resists caring for the poor” click here.  Reported by Jack Jenkins, the senior reporter of Think Progress. huston

Having just come from the Frederich Beuchner writers workshop at Princeton Theological Seminary, I can testify that  virtually all the attendees and workshop leaders agree with Jenkins.



presidential scholars in Princeton

Winona Guo and Priya Vulchi 

On May 5 the U.S. Department of Education released the names of the Presidential Scholars, two students from each state plus winners from the arts and career/technology. This year’s Presidential Scholar List include a student from Princeton High School, Winona Guo, and one from Mercer County’s Health Science Academy, Sanjana Duggirala, of East Windsor.

Established in 1964 the program was expanded to include those who excel in the arts, as well as in academe, and it was expanded again in 2015 to add those in career and technical fields. I remember how excited I was when, in 1979, dancers were included in this prestigious program. Some years, the arts scholars performed at the Kennedy Center. 

Here is how the scholars are selected. Under the original plan, the first cut is by SAT or ACT scores — the top 20 men and women from each state.  For New Jersey, more than 350 were selected. This includes those who were selected by different criteria — for their achievement in the arts or in career technology fields. Then that group submits materials: essays, self-assessments, secondary school reports, and transcripts.  That winnowed it down to 16, plus four arts students and two career/technology students.

Here’s where the essays and extra-curricular activities really count. Duggirali was  named a Public Health Leadership scholar and state president of the New Jersey Association of Student Councils. 

Surely what helped Winona Guo to win was her amazing work, along with Priya Vulchi, as co-founders of Princeton CHOOSE.  Together, they worked to overcome racism and inspire harmony through exposure, education, and empowerment. Together, they wrote a much acclaimed textbook about race.  I came to know Guo and Vulchi as  board members of Not in Our Town Princeton,  Both made invaluable contributions and modeled how to work together as a team of two . Working in tandem – always together – they muster support from peers and adults to accomplish what many thought impossible.

Congratulations all-round!


Prep for the P-rade

pamperedFor an in-depth look at Princeton Reunions, here is E.E. Whiting’s research in U.S. 1 Newspaper

plus wristband reflections by Richard K. Rein.

In the sister paper, Princeton Echo, the Pampered Princetonian: reflections on student privilege.

But by all means don’t miss the P-rade. Best viewing area, steps of Whig or Clio. It starts at 2 but bring water and sunscreen and nab an early seat.

What’s hot at Reunions for Entrepreneurs

alumni web phone

All of these events are listed as open to the public. Declare an early weekend and network for free! 

Friday, June 2, 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. 

20th Annual Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network (PEN) Startup Competition & Conference: Registration, Mimosas, and Networking Opening remarks: Mung Chiang, Arthur LeGrand Doty Professor of Electrical Engineering; Founding Director of the Princeton EDGE Lab, Director, Keller Center for Innovation in Engineering Education and Inaugural Chair, Princeton Entrepreneurship Council, Princeton University. Moderators: Mayra Ceja ’03, President, Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network, and Eric Sharret ’02, Vice President, Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network.  Sponsored by the Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network, Keller Center, Office of Career Services, Office of Technology Licensing, E-Club, Fitz Gate Ventures, LivePlan, Chaac Ventures and Sequoia. Friend Center, Auditorium 101.

10 to 11 am 

Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network (PEN) Fireside Chat with Two Generations of Princeton Entrepreneurs: Is It in Our DNA? Moderators: Justin Ziegler ’16, Chief of Staff, Andela; Mayra Ceja ’03, President, Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network; Eric Sharret ’02, Vice President, Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network. Speakers: Jeremy Johnson ’07, Founder, Andela and 2U, and Marty Johnson ‘81, Founder, Isles, Inc. Sponsored by the Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network, the Keller Center, the Office of Career Services, the Office of Technology Licensing, E-Club, Fitz Gate Ventures, LivePlan, Chaac Ventures and Sequoia. Friend Center, Auditorium 101.

11-1 pm 

Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network (PEN) Startup Showcase & Lunch To 1:00 PM. Sponsored by the Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network (PEN), the Keller Center, the Office of Career Services, the Office of Technology Licensing, the E-Club, Fitz Gate Ventures, LivePlan, Chaac Ventures and Sequoia. Friend Center, Convocation Room

1 -2 pm 

Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network (PEN) Pitch Competition Moderators: Mayra Ceja ’03, President, of the Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network; Eric Sharret ’02, Vice President, Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network of PEN. To 2:00 PM. Sponsored by the Princeton Entrepreneurs’ 13 FRIDAY, June 2 Network (PEN), The Keller Center, Office of Career Services, Office of Technology Licensing, E-Club, Fitz Gate Ventures, LivePlan, Chaac Ventures, Sequoia. Friend Center, Auditorium 101.

2 -3 pm

20th Annual Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network (PEN) Reception.  Sponsored by the Princeton Entrepreneurs’ Network (PEN), the Keller Center, the Office of Career Services, the Office of Technology Licensing, E-Club, Fitz Gate Ventures, LivePlan, Chaac Ventures, Sequoia. Friend Center, Upper Atrium.

and you might be interested in

Interactive Vehicle Demonstration To 4:00 PM. Sponsored by the Princeton Autonomous Vehicle Engineering (PAVE). 1972 Plaza, in front of McCosh 10. on Friday, 2 -4 pm 


my personal favorite is Saturday, June 3, 10:30 am to noon 

Journalism in a Post-Fact Era Moderator: Joel Achenbach ’82, Washington Post reporter. Panelists: Joe Stephens, Ferris Professor in Residence and Washington Post investigative reporter; Edward Wong, visiting Ferris Professor and New York Times international correspondent; Nancy Cordes *99, CBS News congressional correspondent; Juliet Eilperin ’92, Washington Post senior national-affairs correspondent; Richard Just ’01, Washington Post Magazine editor; Jennifer Epstein ’08, Bloomberg White House/political reporter.  Sponsored by the Princeton Alumni Weekly and the Ferris Seminars in Journalism in the Council of the Humanities. Frist Campus Center, Room 302.

and some more folks you might want to network with . . .

Alumni-Faculty Forum: Entrepreneurship: Sowing the Seeds of Innovation Moderator: Mung Chiang, Arthur LeGrand Doty Professor of Electrical Engineering; Founding Director of the Princeton EDGE Lab; Director, Keller Center for Innovation in Engineering Education; and Inaugural Chair, Princeton Entrepreneurship Council. Panelists: Dinni Jain ’87, Former COO, Time Warner Cable; Duncan Van Dusen ’92, Founding Executive Director, CATCH Global Foundation; Stephen K. Shueh ’97, Managing Partner, Roundview Capital; Jon Hayes ’07, Founder and CEO,; Arielle Sandor ’12, Co-Founder and CEO, Duma Works. Sponsored by the Alumni Association of Princeton University. Julis Romo Rabinowitz Building, Room 399. Friday, 2:30-3:45 p.m. 

And the P-Rade starts at 1. All details here. 

If you are not a true alum, you might have trouble figuring out some of these locations but, hey, it’s Darwinian selection. 



Happy birthday, boss!


Happy birthday to Richard K. Rein, who turned the Big Seven Oh yesterday and ruminated on the milestone in his column today, here. 

Seventy’s good, from my point of view. Seven years ago I ruminated on the same number,  here.  The wisdom that still works today is from Frederick Buechner: “The place God calls you to is where your deep gladness and the world’s deep hunger meet.”

Many happy returns, Rich, of the non-retail kind.